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atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
atastybellpepper
One of the most common garden flowers for borders and pots is the petunia (Petunia spp.). They feature broad, trumpet-shaped blooms and spreading foliage that is hairy and somewhat sticky. They are prolific bloomers and may be found in anything except pure blue. There is a wide range of characteristics found in the petunia genus, and the majority are marketed as hybrids. These characteristics include single and double blooms, ruffled and smooth petals, striped, veined, and solid colors, mounding and cascade growth behaviors, and even some with smell. Petunias grow quickly as plants. After the final day for frost, they germinate and are ready to be planted outside in approximately 12 weeks, growing to their maximum size by late spring. Petticoat Care Petunias typically bloom in the summer, although they may begin in the spring and continue into the autumn before the temperatures drop and the first frost appears. Extreme summer heat might sometimes temporarily stop flowers from blossoming. In order for older petunia cultivars to continue flowering, deadheading (removing wasted flowers) is usually necessary. Although many modern types don't need deadheading, they will still gain from it to get the most flowers possible. Additionally, petunias will need frequent feeding and watering during the growth season (spring to fall). Additionally, they may value some weather protection, which might include relocating container plants to a safe location or erecting a temporary cover over garden beds. Light The majority of petunia types enjoy full sun, which is defined as at least six hours in direct sunlight most days. However, in the summertime, some shade will assist to keep them cool and blossom more effectively (particularly against the intense afternoon light). Petunias like to grow in a light, healthy soil with adequate drainage. They may grow in a wide range of soil types as long as they drain effectively. Additionally, they like a pH of slightly acidic soil. Water Petunias dislike being dry for extended periods of time, like many other blooming annuals. However, they also dislike sitting in moist soil since it might cause their roots to rot. Furthermore, plants with too much water may become lanky and produce few blooms. When there isn't any rainfall, it is often adequate to soak beds once or twice a week in 1 to 2 inches of water. Some spreading kinds and plants cultivated in pots, on the other hand, often need more regular and thorough watering. Don't allow the soil dry out more than 2 inches below the surface. Thermodynamics and Humidity Generally speaking, petunias like temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Even though they can withstand low temperatures down to roughly 40 degrees Fahrenheit, frost and very cold temperatures will harm and eventually kill the plants. For these blooms, low to moderate humidity levels are ideal. Fertilizer Petunias should be fertilized with a balanced fertilizer when they are planted. Compost should also be incorporated into the soil. After that, treat with a liquid fertilizer designed for blooming plants every two to three weeks beginning in July and continuing until the plants begin to fade in the autumn. Check the specific care instructions for your plant since certain spreading kinds need weekly fertilizer. The petunia variety "Blue Spark Cascadia" boasts sweet-smelling trailing violet blooms. The white blooms of "Supertunia Silver" have lavender veins and throats. It is a prolific blooming with a high tolerance for harsh conditions. Large, buttery yellow blooms and excellent weather tolerance are also features of "Prism Sunshine." Pruning Pinch down the stems after planting young petunias to promote more branching and a bigger plant. The plant will choose how far back to squeeze. Just pinch an inch or less if the seedling is short and stocky. However, you may pull back the stem by half if the seedling is gangly. Growing Petunias from Seed: A Guide The most typical way to get petunias is as young plants from a nursery. However, starting petunias from seed might be worthwhile, particularly if you're aiming for a specific type. Start your seeds at least 10 to 12 weeks before to the anticipated last day of frost in your zone. The procedures for growing petunias from seed are as follows: On top of a damp seed-starting mixture, scatter the small seeds. Do not bury them; instead, gently push them down since they need light to sprout. After that, wrap the container with transparent plastic and place it somewhere warm that is out of direct sunlight. Within seven to ten days, seedlings ought to appear. Once they appear, take the plastic off. The seedlings may be moved into their own pots after they have three genuine leaves and left there until they are prepared to be moved outside. Typical Pests & Plant Illnesses Aphids, flea beetles, slugs, and snails that eat the stems and leaves are some pests that may plague petunia plants. 1 Often, you may just use a powerful water blast to spray bugs off the plants. However, you may apply a pesticide if the infestation is severe and preventing blossoming. Petunias may be vulnerable to fungus-related illnesses like gray mold, particularly in wet regions. 2 If you live in a humid climate, choose a variety that has a better tolerance for moisture. Frequently Occurring Petunia Issues Petunias are tolerant plants that bloom often, but they sometimes have problems that you can manage. Wilted Leaves or Flowers Wilted petunia flowers or leaves may occur for a variety of causes, but the majority of them are related to water: either too much or not enough. If the soil is dry, check it and water your petunias. If wet, reduce how often you water. slender stems Petunias often grow lanky stems, but it's simple to fix: deadhead blossoms on a regular basis by pinching back. Your petunia will be less lanky when it comes back if you trim its stems to 2 to 3 inches in length if this doesn't help it fill out.
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atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
atastybellpepper
Pilea peperomiodes, sometimes known as the Chinese money plant, missionary plant, pancake plant, pass-it-along plant, and UFO plant, has a dome of lovely and distinctive lily pad-like leaves. The Chinese money plant originated in southern China and was introduced to the United Kingdom around the turn of the 20th century. It's quite simple to reproduce, so it spread discreetly among houseplant lovers (thus its moniker, the pass-it-along plant), but it was almost unheard of until it became famous on social media a few decades previously. Despite this, Pilea peperomiodes might be difficult to get; it's preferable to visit a specialized home plant store or an internet source. It's also pricey, so if you have a plant-owning buddy, ask them to pot up one of the numerous offspring that sprout around its base for you. Pilea peperomiodes is a simple plant that is suitable for beginners since it tolerates neglect in terms of watering and feeding. However, if you care for it properly, it will repay you with rapid growth, glossy green leaves, and a plethora of babies at the base. Pilea peperomiodes develop somewhat differently, and your plant will likely become more upright as it ages. Plants that are older may produce small blossoms. Pilea peperomiodes develop somewhat differently, and your plant will likely become more upright as it ages. Plants that are older may produce small blossoms. 1. Pilea peperomiodes cultivation Plant your Pilea peperomiodes in well-drained compost in a warm, bright, but not very sunny location. Water only when the soil begins to dry out. 2.Pilea peperomoides cultivation Pilea peperomiodes grows best in a warm location where the temperature does not fall below 12°C in winter. Put it somewhere bright - it can withstand some direct sunlight, but not midday or afternoon sun, which can burn the leaves. 3. Planting Pilea peperomiodes When you get your plant home, there's no need to remove it from its plastic container (unless it's root bound); just place it in a more beautiful pot. When the roots are bound (you'll notice roots growing from the bottom of the container), repot. Plant in a 2:1 soil-based compost (or peat-free, multi-purpose compost) and perlite mix, with drainage holes at the bottom of the container. 4.Taking Care of Pilea peperomiodes Water frequently from spring through fall, but let the top few cm of the compost to dry out between waterings and let any excess drain away afterwards - Pilea peperomiodes, like other house plants, does not appreciate sitting in cold, moist compost. In the winter, use less water. Feed your home plants once a month using a weak or diluted house plant food. Wipe the leaves down once in a while to maintain them bright and dust-free. You could spray the foliage, but this isn't necessary. Because the plant will naturally drift toward the light, giving it a slanted appearance, rotate it every few days to keep its mounded appearance. If the plant has gotten root bound, repot in the spring. 5.Propagation of Pilea peperomiodes Pilea peperomiodes is quite simple to propagate. It rapidly develops tiny plants at its base known as offsets or pups, which may be gently plucked with a fork and put in an inch of water. After a few weeks, roots will have grown and you will be able to pot up your new plants. They will grow quickly. 6.Problem-solving Pilea peperomiodes growth Yellow or brown leaves near the plant's base are typical; these are old leaves that naturally decay and fall off. If you see yellow leaves all over your plant, it might be due to over- or under-watering, so double-check your watering schedule. Underwatering or overwatering might cause flopping, lackluster leaves; examine the soil to determine which applies to your plant. Lack of light may cause bending and curling leaves. Pale leaves may indicate overexposure to direct sunlight. Sunburn causes brown patches on the leaves. Look for little brown lumps on the leaves if you suspect a scale insect infestation. Wipe them away gently with cotton wool dipped in a fatty acid or plant oil-based pesticide. Act quickly if you see them, since the condition might spread and harm the plant's health. Powdery mildew may emerge on the leaves as white spots. Improve air flow around the plant by removing the afflicted leaves.
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atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
atastybellpepper
How to take plant cuttings: the basics Plant growth during the current planting season is often used for plant shoot cuttings. Cuttings can be taken at different phases of a plant's development. The variety of cuttings includes hardwood and succulents. It is impossible to identify a single cutting type that will benefit all plants. Adapt the time to the location to collect cuttings. The majority of plants that are propagated in greenhouses may often be cut at any time. In early June, cuttings from deciduous plants are often collected. Usually, the middle of a branch should be used for cutting rather than the top or the end. You may decide at what point of development each variety of plant will root best by testing and gaining expertise. Pick the "ideal" moment to trim the stock plant's stems. Seasonal Change From the same stock plant, some cuttings may root while others may not. There can be a "optimal moment" to collect plant cuttings. Numerous factors may determine how cuttings root. Depending on the season, several plants have varying rooting capacities. Success or failure in reducing production might depend on how long apart they are taken. Timing has a specific impact on woody plants. Some plants may even have trouble creating cuttings that are viable to develop roots beyond a certain age, often years. young cuttings When cuttings are taken from young portions of the plant, certain plants root more readily. When shoot cuttings are taken simultaneously from the same parent plant, some cuttings may have varying rooting capacities. A cutting may be youthful in terms of growing age, but it may be ancient in terms of the stem from which it was cut. Cuttings that are physically young but were taken from the top of a branch of a tree that is two years old may perform as well during root initiation as cuttings that are two years old. Cuttings taken from the plant's base may have rooting qualities that reflect their true age, which is likely months rather than years. The location of the shoots on the plant might be one of the causes. Shoots from this year may root differently from shoots from the previous year. It is possible that lower-growing shoots get less sunshine than higher-growing shoots. Perhaps a few weeks separate the higher shoots from the lower sprouts. Use a lower dosage of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts on younger shoots since they need less stimulation to root than older shoots. An atmosphere that is more stable is needed for the younger shoots to grow. By keeping relatively young mother plants or hedging the young mother plants, it may sometimes be advantageous to promote juvenility. Since the mother plant must continuously create energy to develop new shoots, pruning of the mother plants should be kept to a minimum. To produce higher-quality cuttings, constantly switch out the mother plants. In the DISCUSSION FORUM, Wesley Hackett's outstanding chapter, "Donor Plant Maturation and Adventitious Root Formation," from Adventitious Root Formation in Cuttings, is reproduced. Take thorough notes Making notes is crucial while collecting cuttings. In order to account for seasonal variance, provide information such as the number of days after a significant repeating occurrence, such as the forsythia's blossoming. Take note of the cutting's origin, the time and weather at which the cuttings were collected, the moment at which they were stuck, the date, etc. Prior to applying Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, take care of the cuttings. As soon as plant cuttings are removed from the stock plant, they should be propagated. By keeping the basal end of certain plant cuttings covered in wet cloth until you're ready to treat and plant them, you can protect the cuttings from wilting. Never store unused cuts for a long time. Some cuttings, like prunus root stocks, may be maintained fresh by keeping them stored in plastic and in a cold location. To give the cuttings a healthy turgor, store them for approximately a day at a low temperature (about 40°F) and a high relative humidity (95%) level. Keeping tropical plants at room temperature is common practice. Cutting the wounds before therapy to prevent bleeding When treated with Rhizopon AA and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts, certain plant cuttings, such as hardwood cuttings, root more readily if a tiny nick or wound is formed at the basal end. The 'v' cut, which is often 1/2 to 3/4 inch long. Most herbaceous and tropical plants are not often "wounded." Treatment In accordance with the needs of the plant and the preferred technique, root the cuttings with Rhizopon and Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts. Choosing a rooting medium for cuttings Cuttings of several plant species are rooted using various medium types. The medium that is best for the plant should be chosen by the grower. All peat moss, peat and sand mixtures, all sand, rockwool, and vermiculite or pearlite with soil mixes are a few examples of frequently used media varieties. You must reduce the concentration of Rhizopon AA or Hortus IBA Water Soluble Salts when using medium, such rockwool, that have no retention qualities.
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atastybellpepper
2022-06-28
atastybellpepper
The Field Guide to Urban Gardening by Kevin Espiritu of Epic Gardening is a really useful resource to help you determine what you need with your space restrictions and particular growing conditions if you're looking to turn your balcony into a lush garden—or even if you only have a small patio space. The Quarto Group and Cool Springs Press contributed this passage from a book about starting a balcony garden. Growing things on your balcony adds beauty to an otherwise unappealing area. Additionally, you may complete the following tasks: -Grow living barriers to reduce noise pollution Make it more difficult for pests to get your garden. Provide some food for yourself to cut down on your "food miles." Create a garden on your balcony. When growing on a balcony, your first concern should be if the balcony can sustain what you're producing. The majority of balconies should be strong enough to support a few pots or beds, but it's a good idea to evaluate your area first before you start filling it with plants. When a container is laden with soil, water, and a tomato plant, particularly if you have a lot of them, you'd be astonished at how heavy it can get. Instead of placing all of your pots in one spot on your balcony, spread them out. By doing this, the weight distribution will be more evenly distributed, preventing any unpleasant balcony gardening accidents. Examine the horticultural conditions on your balcony. Sun Which way does the balcony on your house face? The ideal balconies are those facing south, although those facing southeast or southwest can also work. And you can still grow plants if your window faces north. All you have to do is change the kinds you plant to ones that like shade. Shade Before establishing your garden, Kevin advises checking out the balcony in the morning, afternoon, and evening to observe how the shadows affect the area. When you set up a balcony garden, you often discover that you put the plants in a spot that is shadowed for 80% of the day by an obstruction. For guidance on where to place your garden, pay attention to how shadow affects your balcony. Wind The major concern with balcony gardens is the wind, much more so than with raised beds or containers on the ground. Planting wind-resistant vegetation, like rosemary, is your first choice. Stake your plants firmly and use windscreens to assist break some of the stronger gusts as a second, more adaptable alternative. Walk outside a few times during the day to check the direction and strength of the wind, similar to monitoring the shade on your balcony. Use pots that can withstand more wind, such terra-cotta ones, if your area experiences a lot of it. addressing water drainage The majority of balconies feature drainage holes or are at the very least slanted so that water flows in one direction. The last thing you want to do is irritate a downstairs neighbor by watering the garden every time it rains filthy water on them while you're growing on a balcony. Installing a balcony rain barrel can increase your conservation score if you live in a rainy location. By doing this, you avoid wasting large quantities of runoff and get to irrigate your garden with pure rainwater, which is always better than using municipal water. Design of a balcony garden Since every balcony is different, your urban gardening masterpiece should be adapted to your surroundings. Having said that, there are certain fundamental guidelines to adhere to in order to design a balcony garden that is beautiful, useful, and—best of all—productive. Considerations for balconies fall into three categories: the floor, the railing, and everything else. You may use your available space to the fullest extent by thinking in these three tiers. How to handle the balcony's floor The floor of your balcony is a terrific place for bigger pots full of plants that require a little room to flourish provided you're ready to give up some foot space. Beans, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and other vegetables grow well in pots on the balcony floor. They'll effectively fill up the gap over time. installing pots on the balcony railing The most beautiful part of your balcony garden is where your railings are. Since they dangle out the balcony, they get the maximum solar exposure while taking up the least amount of room. Balcony railing planters are one of the most difficult pieces of gardening equipment, despite their usefulness. It might be difficult to know precisely how to connect plants to railings since there are so many different kinds of railings. The last thing you want to do is haphazardly connect a railing planter just to watch it tumble down to the earth below given how much wind balconies are prone to. Sitting planters You can often get planters with a bottom that is just that size if your rails are a regular dimension. If you want to choose a plug-and-play solution, these are fantastic possibilities. Simply fill them with dirt, put them in pots, and they'll begin to grow. These may not be the greatest option if your balcony experiences a lot of wind since they can fly off, particularly as the soil becomes dry and the planter becomes lighter. planters with screws on top Although they lack a notched bottom, these varieties are identical to sit-on-tops. These work well with wood since they screw right into the railing. planters that attach They feature a hook design to attach around the railing and are the most popular kind of railing planters. The planter then leans on the edge of the railing while straining against its own weight. If you are certain that the design will match your railing, they are excellent choices. It might be difficult to first choose which railing style would go with your balcony since there are so many variations on this design. Compare the width of your fence to the dimensions of the planter box's hook or connection. simplifying balcony garden maintenance Balcony gardening is appealing since it's a simple process to get started with, but with the following advice, it's a breeze. not seeds, but seedlings If you purchase seedlings from a nearby nursery and simply transfer them into your balcony garden, it is simpler to get your garden off to a good start. If you want to exercise your gardening skills, starting seeds is undoubtedly a fun alternative to attempt. However, if you're a novice gardener and want to see results quickly, purchase seeds from a nearby nursery. Greater container size The fact that you're growing in pots is the main drawback of balcony gardening. Particularly if you're using terra cotta pots, they dry up rapidly. Choose the biggest containers you can to help offset this and provide your plants with the consistent hydration they need. The soil will be able to store more water and evaporate much more gradually because to the increased volume. Put self-watering pots to use. Choosing bigger, self-watering containers is a step up from selecting larger containers. To provide a steady supply of water for the roots of your plants, these containers wick water from a chamber at the bottom of the pot. Large self-watering pots are often available at nurseries or big-box retailers, but you may also make your own following the instructions in Kevin's book. The time you'll save not having to water your plants is definitely worth the additional expense. For a balcony garden, simple plants A balcony garden just really needs one thing: nothing that will completely take over the area. For instance, sprawling squash plants wouldn't be the ideal option. However, even squash is feasible. The following list of plants, however, includes several that are more appropriate for enhancing a balcony. Basil, sage, thyme, oregano, and other herbs Grassy leaves: Leaf lettuce, kale, spinach, and other vegetables "Artichoke" and "Silverskin" garlic "Patio Princess" and "Balcony" "Green Oak Leaf" and "Black Seeded Simpson" lettuce Cayenne: "Camelot" Eggplant: "Bambino" and "Fairy Tale" Rainbow and Rhubarb varieties of Swiss chard Beans: "Purple Queen" and "Blue Lake" (pole) (bush) Watermelon: "Spacemaster 80" Strawberry: "Seascape" and "Ozark Beauty"
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权问薇
2018-08-31
权问薇
[img]仙客来如何休眠度夏？ 仙客来属于喜欢阴凉的花，夏天的高温对它一点也不友好，稍微不小心就会造成死亡，所以在天气超级热之前，一定得提前做好度夏准备！ [img]度夏方法： 1、修剪叶片 当室外温度超过20℃的时候，仙客来的叶片开始发黄，开花量也在逐渐减少，此时要对仙客来进行修剪，将那些发黄的叶片剪掉，大概去掉叶片的1/3即可。如果修剪后花梗容易倒伏，就找绳子稍微固定一下。 2、再次修剪 当室外温度达到25℃的时候，要对仙客来进行二次修剪，将没开完的花朵和叶片继续修剪大概1/2，等温度达到30℃的时候，将仙客来花朵全剪掉，叶片只留下2-3片叶子即可。 3、休眠期养护 将修剪后的仙客来放到阴凉通风的地方，北阳台或是室内通风处，不要太阳直射。休眠期避免淋雨，同时浇水量一定要减少，可采用浸盆法浇水，避免球茎积水烂根。 4、重新生长 休眠期可以观察叶片情况，若是仙客来剩下的2-3片叶子也发黄，那就剪到只剩1片叶子。保留1片叶子，会让仙客来在秋天苏醒早，甚至比那些剪秃的要早苏醒1个月，这样养分积累多，冬天开花也就变多了！ 风信子如何休眠度夏？ 现在不少花友家的风信子都开败了，甚至连绿色的叶子都干枯了，这就是要休眠了！ [img]度夏方法： 1、剪掉花箭 如果是土培的风信子，开花后将花箭剪掉，大概从花箭一半以上的位置开始剪掉，然后加点磷钾肥，让叶片继续生长，为种球继续养分。 2、种球挖出来 随着气温升高，风信子的叶片会不断枯萎，此时停水10-15天，等到叶子全都枯黄后，将种球挖出来，将花茎和发黄的叶片、根系剪掉，然后在多菌灵溶液中浸泡40分钟左右。 3、找一个干燥的塑料袋，将晾干的风信子种球放进去，不要封口，然后放在阴凉通风的地方，比如冰箱的冷藏室就可以。为了防止潮湿，还可以加入锯末。大概2-3个月就够了。 4、等到10月份的时候，将风信子从冰箱拿出来，重新种植即可，这样就可以让风信子复花了。 倒挂金钟如何休眠度夏？ 虽然倒挂金钟开花好看，而且很容易爆盆，但是天气一热基本就撑不住了。不少花友纷纷跟花花说，家里的倒挂金钟都挂了好几盆了 [img]度夏方法： 1、修剪枝条 倒挂金钟特别怕热，随着夏季温度逐渐增高，特别是30℃以后，基本上就开始休眠了。此时可以将枝条剪短，从枝条上6个芽点向上全都剪掉。 2、减少浇水 将倒挂金钟放到北边阳台或窗台上，避免太阳直射，避免雨淋，同时减少浇水，保证盆土略微干燥。 3、停止施肥 25℃以上停止施肥。因为施肥会导致新枝徒长，进而造成度夏难的现象。 4、扦插小苗 虽然倒挂金钟不容易度夏，但是刚刚扦插的小苗却比较耐高温，所以在度夏之前，可以用枝条扦插小苗，避免母株因为度夏不成功死掉。 长寿花如何休眠度夏？ 从过年开始，长寿花就一茬茬开花不断，如今天气热了终于要进入休眠期了。 [img]度夏方法： 1、避免直射 温度一超过30℃，长寿花就开始进入休眠期了，此时可以将长寿花放在光线明亮的客厅、北阳台等通风好的地方，避免直射太阳。 2、减少浇水 进入休眠期的长寿花生长缓慢或停滞，浇水一定要减少。平常摸到距离盆土表面2-3cm的土壤干透了后再浇水，盆内千万别积水。休眠期停止施肥。 蟹爪兰如何休眠度夏？ 跟长寿花一样，一到天气炎热的时候，蟹爪兰也要开始进入休眠期了。 [img]度夏方法： 1、注意修剪 为了防止蟹爪兰度夏死掉，一定要在度夏前进行修剪，将那些密不透风的枝条剪掉，让蟹爪兰整个整株都透风。 2、遮阴通风 将蟹爪兰放在北阳台或室内通风处，如果放在东、西阳台，一定要注意遮阴，避免太阳直射。 3、减少浇水 蟹爪兰休眠期，注意保证盆土表面干燥，大概半个月浇1次水。注意千万别淋雨，如果温度特别高，一定要注意在花盆周围喷水。 多肉如何休眠度夏？ 对于那些冬型种的多肉来说，一到夏天就进入了休眠状态，基本上不再长个了。 [img]度夏方法： 1、注意遮阴 像是黑法师、月兔耳、山地玫瑰…一到夏天都会进入休眠期，此时必须要注意遮阴，将多肉放在阴凉通风的地方养护。 2、减少浇水 为了防止多肉休眠期积水死亡，必须要减少浇水量，让盆土处在略微干燥的状态，大概10-15天浇1次水即可。 天竺葵如何休眠度夏？ 家里的温度持续在30℃的时候，家里的天竺葵就到了要休眠的时候了，此时各位花友一定得注意了！ [img]度夏方法： 1、保证干燥 保证盆土表面处于干燥的状态，浇水的时候，从盆沿慢慢浇下去，千万不能饿沾到叶片和茎干上。 2、停止操作 从5月开始，像是什么换盆、重剪或是整形修剪枝条之类的操作，全部停止，不要再操作了。 3、夏季不休眠的补充肥料 大花天竺葵和天使品种夏季不会因为炎热休眠，对于这种夏季疯长的花来说，必须要给予稀释的肥料，促使天竺葵开花更多。 花花今天就介绍到这里了。 各位花友一定要重视起来哦， 不然家里的花死翘翘了， 可就特别心疼了！
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权问薇
2018-08-31
权问薇
非洲紫罗兰 非洲紫罗兰，又名非洲堇，品种繁多，花色鲜艳，花型多样，只要养护得当就可以保持常年开花。 [img]养护要点： 1、非洲紫罗兰较为耐阴，平时放到有明亮散射光的地方养护即可。 2、非洲紫罗兰的浇水周期为7天左右。 3、非洲紫罗兰喜欢疏松肥沃的土壤，可以按照腐叶土：园土：腐熟厩肥土=5：3：2的比例来配制土壤。 朱瑾花 朱瑾花也叫扶桑花，是一种常见的热带花卉，只要温度适宜，它就能全年开花。 [img]养护要点： 1、朱瑾花喜全阳，光照越充足它生长得越健壮，但是夏季中午光照过于强烈时要注意适当遮阴。 2、朱瑾花较为耐旱，春秋一般2~3天浇1次水即可。 3、朱瑾花喜欢生长在疏松肥沃、排水性良好的微酸性壤土中，可按照园土：砂壤土：腐熟的 有机肥料=3:2:2的比例也配制土壤。 红掌 红掌开花特别的灿烂，红色的花苞看起来像是涂上了亮彩，让人移不开眼。 [img]养护要点： 1、红掌喜光但是被阳光直射可能会烧叶，平时最好把红掌放在阴凉处，接受明亮的散射光。 2、红掌浇水的时间间隔各个季节都有所不同。春秋3~4天浇1次即可。 3、红掌的养殖要注意温度，温度最好保持在18℃~28℃。夏季温度高时要注意通风洒水。 朱顶红 朱顶红品种繁多，花色艳丽，花型靓丽，在室内养上一盆，非常养眼。 [img]养护要点： 1、朱顶红较喜光，可以适当的给予阳光直射，但是不可以太久。 2、朱顶红喜肥，叶子长到5~6cm的时候，每15天左右施1次腐熟的饼肥水，花开后改为每20天左右施1次。 3、夏季朱顶红即将休眠，将种球放在阴凉通风的地方即可。 秋海棠 秋海棠品种多样，非常适合在室内栽种，只要养护得当就能保持常年开花。 [img]养护要点： 1、秋海棠对光照比较敏感，不能被阳光直射。一般适合散射光下生长，在强光下易造成叶片灼伤。 2、秋海棠的生长适温为19℃~24℃，夏季一定要注意遮阴，否则很容易晒伤。 3、秋海棠喜欢疏松肥沃的土壤，盆栽秋海棠的常用的土壤有堆肥土、腐叶土和炭土。 花花介绍的这几种花大家喜欢吗？ 你是不是也养过呢？ 还没养的快动起手来养一盆吧！
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权问薇
2018-06-20
权问薇
[img]1、适合的土壤 最好选择排水性好的砂质土，营养也要注意。具体可用草炭土和细砂均匀混合，也可选松针土加入细砂。 2、适宜的温度 处在适宜的温度下，它才可能长势好。不过白天和夜晚会有差异，白天在二十度以上较好，夜晚则在十度之上。 [img]3、充足的光线 光照是非常重要的，相比温度等因素来说更重要。除了夏季特别强的光线之外，其他时间尽量使其多接受光线照射。如果太阳光照射不足，还可用灯光来做补充。 4、适量的水分 它对水分需求不是太多，但是也不可一点都没有。每次只需浇一点点，然后等土壤干了之后再浇。另外，注意不要让它被夏季的暴雨淋到。 [img]5、充足的肥料 栽植和换盆时，需在土壤中加入基肥，比如豆饼、麻酱渣等，这样可有效弥补土壤养分不够的问题，帮助植株长得好。除了基肥，在成长期还需要定期施肥。大概每两周左右就需要浇灌一次肥料，用发酵过的有机液肥。浓度不要太高，大概百分之二十左右。 6、防治病虫害 在高温、通风不好的条件下，会多发病虫害，影响其成长。病害可用多菌灵，虫害可用氧化乐果。 [img]
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权问薇
2018-06-20
权问薇
[img]1、花盆和土壤 尽量选择透气性好的花盆，比如陶盆、紫砂盆等。如用塑料盆，尽量选择颗粒大些的基质。土壤也要透气，还要注意排水性和含有养分。可用磷酸钾等作为基肥，会使植株长得更快。大概两到三年，土壤会结块，这时需换土。 2、适量的肥料 在营养液的帮助下，它的成长速度会更快。除了普通的营养液之外，还可用一种“强根水”。它也类似一种肥料，不过主要针对根部，帮助根须生长。 [img]3、科学的浇水 总体的原则是“不干不浇”，即可满足要求。具体来说各个季节有差异。春天大概半个月一次，夏天每周一次，秋季大概二十几天一次。可用雨水浇。 4、充足的光照 光线对它的成长速度影响很大。除了温度高于三十六度之后需要遮光，其他时间尽量使它多接受光照。 [img]5、适宜的温度 温度最适使在二十度上下，不要过高过低。温差亦要控制，不要太大。 6、调节湿度 在晚上，要提高湿度，以利于植株二氧化碳的吸入。在白天，则要降低湿度，以免蒸腾量下降。 7、预防病虫害 以预防为主。病害主要有“炭疽病”等，虫害主要有“蚧壳虫”等。控制水分、及时通风是预防的主要方法。 [img]
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八公
2018-06-20
八公
喷牛奶杀虫 花花今天教大家一个之前从来没用过的方法，那就是用牛奶来杀虫，是不是觉得很神奇呢？ [img]操作步骤： 1、首先找一个干净的小喷壶，将纯牛奶打开口子，倒入小喷壶中备用。 2、用小喷壶中的牛奶朝着植株上喷洒，记得叶子的正反面都要喷到。 3、将喷了牛奶的花直接放到室内通风处，静静等待几个小时的时间，让牛奶在叶面上变干即可。 4、牛奶变干后会覆盖一层黏膜，对于红蜘蛛、蚜虫等小虫子来说，直接就被牛奶黏膜固定住了。而且红蜘蛛、蚜虫等还会不断吸收牛奶，最后整个都被撑死了。 5、用牛奶杀虫的方法，主要适用于红蜘蛛、蚜虫等比较小的虫子，各位花友可以试一试哦！ 喷头冲水 接下来，花花介绍一个简单的方法，那就是用水冲！不管是红蜘蛛还是蚜虫，只要拿水冲一冲，立马就见效！ [img]操作步骤： 1、将有虫害的植株放到卫生间，打开淋浴的喷头从下往上冲，这样可以将叶片背面的虫子全都冲下去。 2、如果家里的花担心喷头淋水太多，可以选择找一块泡沫板，剪成比花盆稍微小一些的面积，然后在面板上豁一道口子，口子的大小保证植株茎干能穿过去即可。 3、将泡沫板套在花盆上，保证将盆面整个盖住，然后将家里的花平放在地面上（如果担心放在地面会损坏，可以在花盆下垫个高点的东西） 4、一边用水龙头冲洗叶片，一边用手在叶片上轻轻揉搓，将叶片上的虫子和一些分泌物都清洗掉，然后放在阴凉通风处晾干，这样就能将虫子杀死了。 5、像是红蜘蛛、蚜虫、小黑飞等，都可以用水冲的方法来杀虫。 洗衣粉+尿素杀虫 接下来，花花就给大家介绍一个好方法，那就是众多花友试验过的，洗衣粉加上尿素杀虫法！ [img]操作步骤： 1、将洗衣粉和尿素、清水按照1： 4： 100的比例配置成溶液，俗称洗尿合剂。 2、首先拿个一次性的小牙刷，蘸取配置好的洗衣粉尿素溶液，朝着植株上有病虫害的叶片刷一刷，将附着在叶片上的虫子或虫卵大概刷掉一部分。 3、剩下的溶液直接装在喷壶中，对着有病虫害的植株喷洒即可。大概3天喷洒一次，连续喷洒3-5次就足够了。 4、因为洗衣粉跟虫子接触后，会在虫子表面形成不透气的黏膜，从而让虫子窒息死亡，而尿素又含有破坏虫子几丁质的作用，所以比单用洗衣粉效果好一些。洗衣粉尿素水对于杀灭蚜虫、红蜘蛛、菜青虫等效果显著。 烟丝泡水杀虫 家里如果有吸烟的花友，可以试试接下来这个方法，也就是所谓的烟丝泡水杀虫，效果那也是非常好的！ [img]操作步骤： 1、将家里抽烟剩下的烟头都收集起来，然后将里面的烟丝都扒拉出来，按照1:20的比例兑水，让烟丝在水中充分浸泡。想要烟头杀虫效果好，还可以在水中加一小勺肥皂水。 2、将烟丝在清水中浸泡大概8个小时的时间，让烟丝在清水中充分浸泡，然后将烟丝过滤出来，剩下的就是烟丝水了。 3、将烟丝水装在喷壶中，直接朝着植株上有病虫害的叶片喷洒，记得叶片的正反面都要仔细地喷洒。大概5天喷洒1次，连续3-5次就能杀灭虫子了。 4、烟丝水属于弱碱性，而且其中的焦油对虫子来说还有微毒性，所以可以杀死蚜虫、红蜘蛛等虫害。 胡椒+辣椒水泡水杀虫 花花之前一直试过辣椒水杀虫，前几天偶然配了点胡椒水，没想到杀虫效果也是很强，简直成了花花的心头好！ [img]操作步骤： 1、将胡椒和辣椒收集起来，放在清水中浸泡24个小时的时间。辣椒可选择那些小米椒之类比较辣的品种，剁碎了后效果更棒！ 2、浸泡24小时后，将辣椒和胡椒过滤出来，剩下的就变成辣椒胡椒溶液了。将溶液倒入喷壶中，朝着植株上喷洒即可。 3、如果家里有榨汁机，也可以将辣椒在榨汁机里打碎，然后将汁液过滤出来，再跟浸泡过的胡椒水混合在一起，装在喷壶中喷洒。 4、无论是胡椒还是辣椒，都带有强烈的刺激性气味，对于蚜虫、小黑飞等来说，都是它们不喜欢的气味，所以这个杀虫方法也是可行的。 粘虫板+胶带杀虫 如果家里小黑飞泛滥咋办？各位花友是不是心里特别不舒服？别急，今天花花就来说一说操作最简单的粘虫板加上胶带的杀虫方法！ [img]操作步骤： 1、看到家里有小黑飞的话，那就将黄色粘虫板放在植株旁边，大概只需要一晚上的时间，就能看到黄色的粘虫板上挂满了小黑飞。 2、如果家里的花除了小黑飞，还有其他比较大的虫子，那就找一个胶带，轻轻触碰虫子，立马就能将虫子给粘下来了。 蚊香+蚊香灰水杀虫 夏季天气热了，讨人厌的蚊子又开始出现了，家里的蚊香是不是又要准备了呢？不如拿蚊香来杀虫子吧！ [img]操作步骤： 1、如果发现家里的花有虫子，那就将一块蚊香放在花盆里。 2、将花盆整个放在塑料桶里，然后将桶密封起来。等到桶内的氧气不足后，蚊香自己就熄灭了。大概只需要20分钟就搞定了！ 3、剩下的蚊香灰别丢，直接在植株的盆面上薄薄地铺上一层，浇水的时候，让蚊香灰随着水渗透到盆土内，不仅能杀死土壤中的虫卵，还能为植株补充钾肥，简直一举两得！ 4、蚊香可以杀死红蜘蛛、蚜虫、白粉虱的虫害，从而让家里的花更健康！ 花露水+蚊香液杀虫 现在不少花友都不用蚊香了，改用蚊香液觉得安全，咱们就可以把蚊香液倒出来，再加点花露水，杀虫效果也是很厉害的！ [img]操作步骤： 1、找个塑料瓶，将电蚊香液和花露水一起倒进去，再加入1000倍的清水搅拌一下，制作成杀虫溶液即可。 2、将搅拌好的溶液装在喷壶中，直接朝着叶面上喷洒，记得叶片正反面都要喷洒到，大概只需要2-3次，就能将虫子全杀死了！
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丫头
2018-05-28
丫头
压蔓在瓜类种植中比较常见，比如西瓜等，那什么是什么是压蔓?压蔓就是通过人为干预，让植物增加不定根，从而达到保障植物生长期的水分和养分的供给，说的白话一点就是用土或者其他东西将瓜蔓的节点压住，让瓜茎生根。 [img]压蔓并不是必须操作，而是锦上添花的操作，如果是露台盆栽的瓜，要想充分利用有限的地方种瓜，特别是在楼顶上种各种瓜类，最好是搭瓜架让它向上爬。如果是大田里，或者其他地栽的瓜有充分的于土壤接触面，多坐两个瓜最好压蔓生成一个不定根系，这样一条主瓜藤就有了两个根，可保生长期水份与养料的供给。 压蔓的时间应掌握在中午以后进行。因为上午水分多，瓜蔓脆，此时压蔓容易折断。压蔓时主、侧蔓均易折断。压蔓时主、侧蔓均需压，并将瓜蔓拉紧， 以利养分输送畅通。要特别注意瓜前重压，瓜后轻压。 如植株生长势较旺， 为防止徒长，可重压并压深些;而对生长瘦弱的植株可轻压并压浅些。 [img]根据压蔓是否埋进土中，可将压蔓分为明压和暗压两种。增压又分重压和轻压。所谓明压就是不把瓜蔓埋进土中。压蔓的时候要把叶柄叶子露出。 其方法有两种：一种是用田间的土块将瓜蔓每隔一段压一下即可。另一种是用树枝压蔓，方法是将细树枝剪成长10厘米左右的小段，然后从中间轻轻对折(注意不要折断)成“Λ”型。再用“Λ”形树枝将瓜蔓夹住插入土中即可。前一种方法适合于刮风不太大的地区，后一种方法不仅适合于少风地区，也适合于多风地区。一般弱势蔓一般用明压。 所谓暗压是将瓜蔓埋进土中。压蔓时在需要压的茎段处的地面上先挖深4～5厘米、长按需要而定的小沟，然将瓜蔓放进沟内覆土压平即可。重压不仅压得深，而且瓜蔓入土部分也较长，有时将坐瓜节到根部的蔓都压入土中，只留叶柄和叶片露在外面。为防止瓜蔓爬得太远，或在爬蔓行上套种其它蔬菜或作物，在压蔓时可先将瓜蔓在根部固定好后绕根盘1圈(俗称“盘条”)再向前压蔓。
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